After months of planning and preparation I've finally got going. Part of my meticulous preparation meant never fully loading the bike before. The first few miles pedalling out of Vancouver were tentative at best, the frame of my poor bike flexing furiously below me. Soon man and machine were in harmony and we covered 78 miles in day one. First stop was the dairy farm of Anna Gouwenberg.
(by the way, I'm writing this blog with my iPhone, so fiddly! I hope to hone my skills in the coming weeks)
I camped in her orchard but, otherwise, was treated like one of the family; I could have been her eleventh child. Learnt lots on the farm, highlight was the artificial insemination demonstration, a much more hands-on process than I'd realised.
Further meticulous planning meant I had no idea that I was tackling this mighty pass until my burning legs and wheezing lungs told me. At some points I could hardly shift a mile without pausing for breath. What goes up must come down and, on the other side, I cruised the next 20 miles effortlessly.
I got off the highway to join the Kettle Valley Railway, now disused and opened up to cyclists and hikers. Can't get the picture to upload but I spent the night in a cabin if some locals who took pity on poor, beleaguered me. The hospitality of Canadians had been astonishing so far and any fears of loneliness have been dispelled by their friendliness. Just be aware that, when you embark on a conversation with a Canadian, you may need to fight to get a word in edgeways.
I camped by the aptly named Osprey Lake, adjacent to the KVR. There were ospreys fishing and, more excitingly, my sleep was broken by the distant howling of what must of been coyotes. Though they must have been miles away their cries echoed off the valley walls to create an eerie sensation. Spending time in the hills you feel close to nature.
This terrible photo shows my lodgings just outside Vernon. At 4pm I had nowhere to stay so I made a speculative phone call to the Krofts, Warm Showers hosts. Two hours later I was tucking into burgers and sipping berry ciders while shooting the breeze with this delightful family. They let me sleep in their gazebo, went to bed very contented!
A typical evening's camp - fairly rubbish food, noodles, peanut butter sandwiches, just to get some fuel in the tank. If camping alone I bring out my secret weapon, my special luxury of a speaker. Mazzy Star, Dexter Gordan and Kendrick Lamar have helped stave away the loneliness!
Preparing to ride through a snow shelter on the way up to Roger's Pass. Back light attached and a prayer that I won't encounter too many huge trucks/RVs!
Staying in a hostel in Golden, right next to the railroad. Woken a few times by the rumbling of passing trains but, in yet another great act of Canadian hospitality, cycle tourists camp for free in the garden. Fantastic conversations with other travellers and useful advice picked up for the road ahead. Current plan is to divert north to the Icefields Parkway and take a look at the glacial landscapes.
