Sunset in Campeche. After a days rest here I set off on Sunday morning refreshed, revived and relaxed. This feeling was to last about one day!
Heading northwards, inland towards ruins tour stop #4 Uxmal. I had the opportunity to get off-road and take some back tracks to cut off 20 miles from my journey. Great riding, a pleasant change from the roads until I met this gate and warning not to trespass. Listening to the voice of reason it seemed sensible to return, OK, yes, add 20 miles onto the journey but avoid incurring the ire of whoever's land it might be.
So voice of reason rejected, (come on, 20 miles), I consulted the voice of adventure and jumped the gate. Slightly stressful riding but I was confident that, being Sunday, there would be few people around. After a few miles I came to this gate and jumped back out of the private land. Hard work lugging the bike over the wall, silly headband purely to keep sweat out of my eyes, definitely not a fashion statement.
I'd hoped to camp in the car park at Uxmal but they no longer allow it so my options were blow the budget on a luxury room for the night or wild camp in s field. Well, my decision is clear. Again, slightly stressful as for once I didn't have permission, and camping in the tropics is mighty uncomfortable! You can't really hang around outside the tent unless you want to study mosquito behaviour so, at 6 o'clock, sunset you have no choice but to dive into your sweltering tent and just lie still, waiting for the temperature to drop.
Like I said, all the benefits of Campeche's R&R quickly undone!
Anyway, the show must go on and next morning a visit to Uxmal, a significant Mayan ruin, was the perfect tonic. Arriving early I virtually had the place to myself and enjoyed the tranquil atmosphere.
The scale of the buildings was impressive...
...as was the forest setting with tree coverage stretching for miles. Lizards crawled over the ruins as parakeets screeched overhead. I was taken to another world.
Riding on, in my weary state, I decided that my destination of Sotuta, 65 miles away, would be too much so I adopted a leisurely pace enjoying the village scenes along the way.
Christmas is on its way! With sunset approaching I started asking for hotels in the villages. Absolutely nothing doing! Everyone said the only lodgings were in Sotuta. So, back to plan A, to Sotuta! So more hard pedalling and some night riding before I got there but I made it there unscathed.
In actual fact there were no hotels in town but I managed to track down a house renting rooms and got a pretty decent room for 170 pesos. Thank goodness for having Spanish, without it finding the room would have been tricky.
A typical evening scene writing in my journal, listening to podcasts and just cooling down.
In the Yucatán Peninsula even an early start doesn't allow you to avoid the humidity but at least for a few hours you avoid the heat of the day.
The most famous of the Mayan ruins - Chichén Itza. The timing of my arrival meant I couldn't avoid the crowds so getting this shot was a minor miracle!
Despite the crowds it was a major spectacle and, lingering until closing time allowed me to take in the site in a more peaceful manner.
Feeling slightly tired and worn out by this stage I decided to ride on to Tulum, ruins tour #6, in one day and earn myself a rest day. A 92 mile push but I'm glad I did it. Tulum, on the coast, was a trading post as well as a religious site/seat of governance.
While the scale of the buildings was not the equal of previous stops on the tour, I did like the coastal setting on what is known as the Mexican Caribbean.
However, the real highlight of my time in Tulum was staying at 'El Jardín de Frida', a hostel and homage to Frida Kahlo. I haven't enjoyed hanging out with backpackers so much for years!
At Frida's I met more Brits in one day than I've met in the entirety of the rest of my trip. A fascinating cast of characters - journalists, university lecturers, students, professional slackers - made for sone really interesting conversations. Listening to the backpackers talk about their experiences really hammered home how different my trip is to the standard travelling experience, and, honestly, how much tougher my trip is. I justify this to myself with the reminder that I'm on sabbatical, not travelling per se. I must suffer to grow as a person!
The big benefit of cycle touring over backpacking is seeing all the things inbetween and the opportunities to be a Good Samaritan! Though this guy was called Ruben he didn't talk that much and certainly needed a hand changing his wheel. One of the bolts was completely stuck but we eventually managed to loosen it using some of my bike oil and an improvised lever to wrench it free. He was soon on his way.
Riding through the Yucatán this month I've seen countless groups cycling or running on pilgrimage, carrying images of their village's saint. I'm not really sure of the exact significance but believe it is linked to the Virgin of Guadalupe.
Hot and sweaty riding, the saving grace is flat terrain. Today I made 70 miles in five hours, maybe my fastest riding yet.
My final destination in Mexico, tomorrow I'll cross the border to Belize. I was saving a little extra cash for a final day splurge until I realised someone had pinched my bike lock! Swines! So, having invested in a new bike lock I had just enough money for a final meal and then some bread and fruit for the road tomorrow. No luxuries but hardly the end of the world.
What a journey it's been, riding the length of the country since 21st September. The festivals, homestays, cuisine, scenery will stay with me for a long time, for life even. Viva México and tomorrow for the next leg of the adventure.
Following my brief foray into Belize - just five days - it was on to Guatemala. One night in Melchor on the border then on to San Benito in the heart of Peten region.
Many tourists stay on the picturesque island of Flores...
...but I hooked up free accommodation at La Danta Project a non-profit organisation which works for Mayan communities in the area. The leafy compound was the perfect spot for a few days break.
Riding around and swimming in the lake was great fun and San Benito made a great base from which to visit...
...Tikal. 
Beast at Tikal.
Beast at Tikal. 
As usual, I went around the ruins unguided, sacrificing in depth information for the opportunity to take in the sights and atmosphere at my own pace. I spent five hours walking around the extensive site.
Much of the appeal was the jungle setting, real Indiana Jones stuff. 
Back at La Danta I had great fun hanging out with the family. The duck decapitation and subsequent plucking was a particular highlight. 
Here's the whole family on the day of my departure. 
Riding on, I've been feeling great in the saddle completing a couple of 80 mile days with ease. Starting before 7 o'clock in the morning has given me time to reach towns to find accommodation and have a look around markets and stock up on food.
Today was always going to be a tougher day as I rode up into the hills. 
It all started so well with pleasant rural scenes and verdant green scenery. 
But after 15 miles the paved road turned into a horrible dirt road. Steep, rocky and slippery, several stretches were unrideable and I had to resort to pushing. The locals looked on with a mixture of bewilderment, amusement and pity.
After 20 miles I got back on to pavement, the best Christmas present I could have hoped for. It took five exhausting hours to cover those 20 miles but I had to pedal on as I was to be hosted in Coban this evening. 
Like a man possessed I attacked the road with all the strength I had and, against all the odds, I made it into Coban before nightfall having climbed just less than 9000 ft in the day. 
Evening meal with the family, another Daniel, Erica and abuela. Nice conversations and lovely to be in a home not a hotel on Christmas Eve. 
