Restful days and a clean bike!

Moving on from Guanajuato, my next stop was another famed tourist town, San Miguel de Allende. More spectacular colonial architecture and lots of narrow, winding streets. Little by little, the presence of indigenous culture is increasing and there were many shops catering for the wealthy, mostly North American tourist market.

About 10% of the town's population is expats as many people have upped sticks to live here, especially in retirement. Without doubt, San Miguel de Allende is a charming little place but I did find it a little artificial, with every other shop a twee handicraft store or quaint coffee shop with slightly overinflated prices. Perhaps I'll come back when I retire...

Another stay at a hostel but this one has other guests! A novelty. I did a bit more cooking - a good way to relax and ensure I'm getting a good intake of fresh veggies. Vegetables make the world go round as far as I'm concerned.

 Just abou t to escape Alcatraz.  As you can see in the background, the hostel was a magnet for bikers, both motorised and pedalised (new word). I've really not met too many cycle tourists since I've been in Mexico so it was good to compare notes and share ideas. 

Next stop was Acambaro where I stayed with Jaime. I was only going to stay one night but Jaime was such an easy going host that I stayed on an extra day literally just to hang out. Eating quite a lot, a few beers, some great Amaretto coffees and slow walks around town. He speaks pretty good English having lived in Texas a few years ago after crossing the border without papers. 

Jaime spontaneously decided to clean my bike , the agreement was that I'd pay for drinks in the evening. Deal!

Look at the shock on my face, a clean bike! We also retuned the brakes so the next day my trusty steed was riding like a dream. I really should give a bit more attention to my bike. But I know I won't.

 Jaime joined me on the first 25 miles of the ride to Morelia. Nice easy riding and slightly cooler autumn temperatures made for perfect riding conditions.

Pastoral landscapes with views over  Lago de Cuitzeo. 

Happy cyclist, less than 50 miles to cover today. 

Morelia city centre. Morelia is in the state of Michoacán, said to be rich in indigenous culture. My next update will be after Dia de los Muertos so hopefully I can share some of this then. 

Pushing through central Mexico

I'm conscious that time is ticking and that, I don't make an effort to push on, I could end up spending months in Mexico. This wouldn't be such a bad thing but , with so much more to discover in Central and South America, a better use of my time would be to press on. Travelling south, in a three day push, I passed from Zacatecas state through the states of Aguascalientes, Jalisco and now Guanajuato state. 

 I contacted a Warm Showers host, Jesus Ivan, in Lagos de Moreno. He's working in Mexico City right now but his parents kindly offered to host me in their home. Great good, great company, I spent a lovely evening with them.

 I love the Spanish word for swallow- 'golondrina'. They were roosting in their thousands in the town centre of Lagos de Moreno, quite a spectacle. Climate change is a global phenomenon; as happens In Europe some swallows are now overwintering here instead of migrating south for the winter.

Sunday night in Lagos de  Moreno and the plazas were thronging with people. Evening paseos, ice cream and stalls selling sweets and decorations for the forthcoming día de los muertos celebrations. Also I was lucky enough to see some regional dances and...

...local musicians performing traditional Mexican music. Wow, these guys could really play! I was mightily impressed by their musicianship.

Moving on to Guanajuato I passed through the sprawling, industrial city of Leon. Not really a place to stop, lots of traffic and noisy highways. At least a couple of cycle lanes helped keep me safe.

It was a relief to reach Guanajuato after a long ride on the highways. 

Staying in a hostel again once more I was the only guest. A bit weird! Nice to have the run of the  place and spend some more time in the kitchen. Cooking is a real novelty for me and I lap up the opportunity to make my own meals.

Getting into Guanajuato on a bike is not fun! Narrow roads, lots of traffic, steep slopes and several tunnels to navigate. Advice, take a moment to remove your sunglasses before riding throughout a tunnel. Common sense failure in my part...

Yes, the Spaniards plundered much mineral wealth from Mexico but what beautiful cities they left behind. The colonial architecture and peaceful plazas are very impressive.

Primary school kids buying sweets in anticipation of el día de los muertos. 

The celebrations run from 31sr October to 2nd November. I'm not sure quite what to expect yet. 

Guanajuato is the birthplace of one of Mexico's most famous artists, Diego Riviera. I hope to visit the home of his even more famous wife, Frida Kahlo, in Mexico City.

City vista.

No one to share the wifi with here so fast internet! Click here if you want to see me and hear my dulcet tones: Guanajuato post

Zacatecas!

Well my third month of the trip is up and what a month it has been. After the physical challenge and constant slogging it out on the Great Divide, time in Mexico has been slower paced and the challenge has been more of a linguistic nature. I've only covered 1162 miles this month, about two thirds of what I did in months one and two. However, thus reflects more days out of the saddle, I am still putting in some pretty hefty daily mileages from time to time! Only four camps in Mexico so far and 19 stays in Mexican homes in a month - this has been an unexpected pleasure of this part of the trip.

Moving on from Fresnillo I took the main highway to Zacatecas. Part of it is a toll road (pictured) but cyclist and just roll on through without charge. Most big roads have wide shoulders so it's safe riding. When the shoulder disappears and you hear a large truck approaching from behind you hold on tight, try to keep as straight a line as possible and grit your teeth hoping to survive unscathed! Many drivers are considerate and wait till they can pass safely.

Zacatecas is the most attractive city I've visited on the whole trip and, unsurprisingly with all the colonial architecture, reminded me of my time in Spain. My host tells me it is the second highest city in Mexico and the centre's streets are draped across the mountainous terrain. The city was founded on and funded by its rich deposits of silver.

The city's cathedral dominates the centre with high towers, an elaborately decorated facade and is both a place of worship and a hub for tourists.

I was fortunate enough to stay with Francisco and Sandra who live slap bang in the heart of Zacatecas. I enjoyed great conversations with them about Mexico, travelling, politics and the regional intricacies of Spanish. Each morning me, Brandon and Jonny (American cyclists I met in Durango) sat down to a sumptuous breakfast of quesadillas, toast, eggs, fruit, honey and coffee. What have I done to deserve such hospitality?!? I just try to smile, be a happy person, try my hardest with Spanish and it all seems to work out!

Exploring the backstreets of Zacatecas had been great fun and there are sir wonderful museums here. I've enjoyed the time out of the saddle again and feel ready to ride on to Aguascalientes tomorrow.

Home! Francisco and Sandra's apartment is the block just to the left of the tree in this beautiful plaza. Like many hosts, they trust us bedraggled cyclists with keys to the property so we are free to come and go as we please. 

The celebrations for the Day of the Dead are approaching soon. While I'm not one to plan ahead to far, at least not on this trip, I'm hoping to make it to Morelia in time to enjoy the festivities there. A fair bit of riding to do in between but, as my mileage suggests, I'm riding within myself and a bit of pushing won't do me any harm. I just can't help but get sidetracked in Mexico though so well see what happens!

Colonial cities in the Tropics

Durango's cathedral looks over the Plaza de Armas, the city's main square. By day stalls sell local produce, snacks and handicrafts while at night the atmosphere completely changes with live music and dancing taking over. I'd had a taste of colonial architecture in Parral but the extent of Spanish-styled buildings was far greater in Durango. After a couple of long days pushing on to the city it was great take some rest time reading in cafes or sat in the plazas.

Food was a regular theme during my stay in Durango; my host Jonathon introduced me to some great eating spots and we got on really well. It's incredible how, with some people, I really struggle to catch a word of what they're saying whereas with others, like Jonathon, communication is a real breeze. He's a very welcoming host; we bumped into a couple of American bike tourers pedalling through town and, without hesitation, they were invited to stay at his house.

The food theme continues! Lunch in the market - a range of caldos to choose from.

Back at Jonathon's house with the American tourers - Brandon and Jonny - and a Mexican friend. Roast chicken dinner washed down with Pacifico beer. Brandon and Jonny were the first cycle tourists I'd encountered in Mexico so it was a great opportunity to share experiences and ideas.

Back on the road, south towards Zacatecas. Smooth riding, undulating rather than hilly. In central Mexico I'm still at quite an altitude, over 7000ft, sometimes rising to above 8000ft. I'm pretty keen to keep my hand in with the camping (though this is only my fourth camp in a month in Mexico). There's a skill to finding decent campsites and I suppose wild camping requires a bit of nerve. This one will go down as a success, close to the road but well secluded, dry and level, no mosquitoes and, at night, with clear skies and a bright moon, a spectacular show of stars and light so bright that it cast a strong shadow. 

After camping I had the unexpected pleasure of riding through Sombrerete, a small town with a delightful colonial centre. After years of backpacking with Lonely Planets or Rough Guides I'm travelling without a travel guide so often have no idea of what's coming up; this little town was an early morning treat. 

Food theme! Leaving Sombrerete I couldn't resist having a second breakfast in this quaint little Chinese diner. As mentioned on Facebook, the large portions weighed me down for the rest of the day but, for a few extra minutes in town, it was worth it. 

Yes, during the three day ride between Durango and Zacatecas I have crossed the Tropic of Cancer so am now officially in the Tropics.

Humble lodgings in Fresnillo, I stayed with relatives of the people who so generously hosted me in Nuevo Casas Grandes in Chihuahua state. Again I was taken in as one of the family and my every need was seen to. 

Fresnillo is a fairly small, provincial town but still with some impressive colonial architecture. I write this post from Zacatecas which has an astonishingly beautiful centre, I will post some photos in due course.

Visiting more of the family... My host was Beto, the guy in the centre and during my stay he proudly introduced me to his friends, seemingly half of Fresnillo, and took me for a day trip to Zacatecas before I cycled on there myself. Beto is a great example of someone whose Spanish I really struggled to catch, 20% would be generous! However, he was incredibly generous and you don't need a common language to understand that he has a heart of gold.

Backroads Durango

Moving on from Parral I planned a five day route through rural Durango to the state capital. A direct ride on the highway would have taken three days but would surely have missed some of the best scenery and the experience of village life. On the way out of Parral I met some bikers who were fascinated by my ride. With the reluctance to leave the comforts of the city behind, I was only too happy to spend a few minutes answering their questions.

However, the journey must go on and a few hours out of Parral I finally left Chihuahua, the only state I'd been in so far, to enter Durango state. My attempts at finding a place to stay, even just a patch of ground to camp on, were pretty comical. In my intended village of rest, where there is no hotel, the first person I asked for help from was as deaf as a post, the second seemed to be the village idiot and the third, a surprisingly unhelpful priest who couldn't grant me permission to camp next to the church. I rode on to the next village, made a beeline to the next church, service in progress. I perched at the back of the church with the intention of befriending the priest at the end of the service, until I realised it was the same guy who had already been of no help to me!

In the end some locals recommended I rode on to La Presa, a reservoir 2 miles up the road. What a fantastic campspot! Just a few vultures (and mosquitoes) for company and the usual chorus of crickets and other insects. One of the most atmospheric places I've camped at and a wonderful temperature for sleeping.

 

The next day was 95% on tracks and a welcome change to riding roads. I was in no hurry but even so, it took me the best part of the day to cover 43 miles. I'd forgotten how much more demanding it is to make progress over this kind of terrain and how much tougher it is on the bike. Nonetheless, an enjoyable days riding.

Cattle grids that also do a good job at catching cyclists! Gilding across the first few effortlessly I soon lost my nerve and slipped off the edge! Horrified at all the damage I might have done to the bike, the rest of the cyclist grids were crossed at snails pace.

On arrival at San Bernardo, absolutely starving, I entered an abarotte - convenience store - which also served food. I interrupted the conversation of a group of old men drinking cokes, a tumbleweed moment. However, after hearing my story I was sat down and told to eat as much as I wanted, it was all free! Such kindness is genuinely humbling and it's hard to know what to say as thanks.

No hotels in  San Bernardo so, undaunted by  my previous failed attempt with the clergy, I went to the church again seeking refuge. The priest was away but Saul was able to receive me and, success! He was happy to give me a bed for the night and a second dinner. With a the riding in doing extra food is lapped up with enthusiasm.

Saul is studying philosophy at the church while working as a high school teacher in the village. His first lesson of the next day was geography so I joined him and his class on a little trip down to the local river to study rocks. The class clearly enjoyed the freedom of being on a field trip but I'm not sure everyone was doing what they should have been. Much like my field trips back home! Still, I chatted with some of the class, though only one girl, who'd had some schooling in the States, could speak English. This is the view from the school across San Bernardo.

And this is smiling Saul!

Moving  on from San Bernardo I crossed the Sierra Madre which involved some pretty intense climbing and wonderful descents! My photos don't do the Sierra justice but it's worth every ache and pain to ride this majestic landscape. 

In the evening I arrived at Cienega, another village with no hotel so, again, to the church. A woman I approached in the street told me the priest wasn't around but that I should ask Jesus Ramos for help. I asked her where he lived, over there, in the house with the yellow door. So, off I went to find Jesus Ramos in the house with the yellow door. I nervously introduced myself to him and within 10 minutes I was eating chile relleno at his dinner table and hearing his accounts of, as a young man, five times crossing the desert into the States, sin papeles to make a living across the border. He told me he was never refused help and assistance so now he always endeavours to help travellers.

Moving on from Cienegas, a tough 87 mile ride with three stretches of mountains to cross and the blessed relief of plains inbetween. Arriving at Nuevo Ideal in the evening I saw a hotel and, exhausted, was only too happy to take a bed for the night. Leave the priests in peace for once. I've stopped bargaining for lower room prices; firstly I'd rather support the local economy than save a few pesos for myself, secondly the prices I'm being quoted seem more than fair, I don't get the sense I'm being charged a gringo rate. Spanish helps a lot I guess. 

The start of today's ride and a clear marker of the challenge ahead. Don't worry, the road signs use kms so in fact I had less than 80 miles to cover and very few hills to cross today. I was in Durango by 3pm in a stress free ride. 

The burden of being a novelty - lots of selfies and stops for chats! Nevertheless good for the ego and people like this guy often give you snacks to take on the ride.

These kids had the right idea, it gets mighty hot in the afternoon. Fine if you're travelling at speed with the breeze, uncomfortable if you're slugging it up a mountain, sweat dripping into and stinging your eyes.