From Wyoming into Colorado

Trees; don't take them for granted. They provide fresh air to breath, shelter from the wind and shade from the sun: Leaving the desert

 Moving into Colorado, the main landscape feature were elegant stands of mature aspen trees. Whereas in other states the lower slopes are covered in fur trees, here the white barked, deciduous aspen dominate. I startled a flock of vultures feeding on a cow carcus by the road, can you spot them in the trees?

 Many cyclists express surprise that I'm doing the Great Divide Trail as my first tour. I usually shrug this off and say I'm just taking it all in my stride. However, some sections are really pretty tough! I had to push my bike for a mile in the blazing midday sun as the path was too steep and rocky to ride. The expression on my face was not staged, I was really hurting!

 First wild camp in Colorado, not a bad view! As I've mentioned before, I'm trying to bring my daily mileage below 60 miles, just to keep my health and fitness in check. The only downside is that, not going to bed completely shattered, I rarely sleep right through the night. After taking a little breather in Steamboat Springs I may do some long days to exhaust myself again! Genuinely, a long hard day in the saddle is a motivating, if stern, test of my strength and endurance.

 I have been surprised on tour by how little spare time I have. Between the cycling, tent pitching, cooking, cleaning etc etc there is relatively little time for much else than a little reading. Alongside this blog I write in my personal journal daily which also takes time, thanks to big sister Bec for giving me this map bound book to write in. (little sister Liz gave me a water filter, thanks for saving me from illness/death!)

The Great Divide Basin

What a magical experience! I've just finished crossing the Great Divide Basin and thoroughly enjoyed riding through a very different environment to the preceding forests and mountains. This is a parched landscape; upland desert with wide and wild vistas. Some cyclists find the crossing boring. However, I was captivated by the stark, desolate environment which felt like a true wilderness.

Sources of water were few and far between so I had to be mindful of  supplies so as not to get caught short. The longest water-free stretch was 55 miles.  I crossed this drinking just half a bottle of water (despite the sun, it was fairly cool so I wasn't sweating too much) but had plenty on reserve just in case. The water points proved to be great places to meet other cyclists!

In truth, part of the appeal of the crossing was the strong tailwinds which meant my bike, functioning like a dream, gobbled up the miles effortlessly. I felt a bit for these two guys going the other way; the winds would have really slowed them down. The key is to get started early if you're expecting headwinds as the wind speed doesn't really pick up until 9am.

Despite the dry, hostile environment there was some nature to encounter along the way: deer, larks, wild horses, coyotes (heard at night) and a chance encounter with a raccoon, can you spot it on this photo?

After an intense first month, I'm bringing my daily average mileage down below 60 miles per day and am trying to arrange a few more nights under roofs rather than canvas. Hopefully I have three nights arranged through Warm Showers in the next week. All helps to make for a sustainable tour.

Wild camping

A little video on the joys of wild camping:

Wild Camping

I made this after nine consecutive days camping so may appear a little jaded!
From here, two days crossing the Great Divide Basin (desert).

Yellowstone and High Passes

My day in Yelowstone initially promised to offer a bonanza of wildlife. Can you see the elk that was sitting just inside the park border? I suspect it was on commission to attract tourists. I visited on a Sundsy, perhaps al the other animals had a day off as this elk is the only animal I saw all day!

Undoubtedly the park is a geological treasure with geysers, fumaroles and bubbing mud pools to explore and enjoy. The colours were exquisite. However, the park is set up and presented for people traveling by car and, by the end of the day, I was  pretty tired of minding traffic and being squeezed onto the narrow hard shoulder. I cheekily wild camped on the shore of Lewis Lake and this was the most serene part of a tourist crowded day. Visiting Yellowstone took me off the Great Divide for the day but, yes, I was riding paved roads - easygoing, but the terrain remained a challenge , reaching my first 8000 ft passes.

The next day, back on the trail, I reached my first 9000 ft passes (just below 3000m). As posted on Facebook, I've completed my first month's cycling and covered 1882 miles, around 60 miles a day, could slow down a bit! After 10 days of camping I was feeling a little dishevelled so glad of a stay at the home of the wonderful Harnack family in Pinedale (Wyoming). So grateful for good company, good food and the chance to remove grime and hack off my beard.

Red Rock Lake

Red Rock Lake proved to be an inspirational last campspot in Montana. A wild, remote upland wetland refuge with nature all around. When I pitched up I feared a windy night so secured my tent firmly. However, the wind died down overnight and there was a clear cold night. In the morning my tent had a thin veneer of frost and the top of my water butyl had iced up. Chilly!

The refuge was originally set up to protect the threatened trumpeter swan (in the background). Alongside this there were sandhill cranes, hunting owls and northern harriers, yipping coyotes and a morning flyby from a bald eagle.

Incredible company too. I had great conversations with Tom and Nancy about the wildlife and management of the refuge. They took pity on my dishevelled state and provided me with a beer in the evening, tea in the morning and some cake for the road! Such kindness has become a common theme in the trail.

Bikers Tom and Steve also camped at the lake and we talked about travelling on two wheels, the learning that happens on the road and looked ahead to how my journey may change as I head south into Mexico and Central/South America.

It's taken some time but I have now finally crossed a state border and am in Idaho. Il leave the Great Divide for a couple of days to explore Yellowstone National Park. A geography teacher's pilgrimage!

The Magic of Marsh Creek

 After several days roughing it in various wild camps, I had the very real pleasure of staying at Barbara Nye's cyclists cabin. Look at the smile on my face, I loved staying there! (tour below) Alongside the human company, there was lots of local wildlife to enjoy too - deer, moose, coyote and sandhill cranes.

More than just offering me a place to stay, Barbara (and John and Stormie) acted as my surrogate guardians, showing me the local area including a ride into Helena, the state capital. I enjoyed the delights of huckleberry ice cream, a visit to Costco and dinner with Barbara's near neighbours. A fantastic insight into Montana life which I would have missed if I'd just pedalled on. If you're reading this guys, you are awesome (dudes)!

The next day I had to continue with my journey (and camping). At least I had some company from some other Dividers, here we are in search of a campsite at dusk.

Click here to see a video of Barbara's incredible cabin: Cabin Tour

British engineering and American loons

Sorry for this slightly nondescript photo but the first major break on my tour is fixed thanks to the remarkable metalworking skills of Tony (originally of Sevenoaks). By a remarkable stroke of fortune I was put in touch with Tony through his wife, Sarah, and the brown part of the pannier rack shows his excellent fix that means my tour can continue stress-free.

Just as lucky but more unexpected, Tony and Sarah invited. me in for the night, fed and watered me and even gave me a packed lunch to see me on my way (if you're reading this Sarah, the bagel was delicious!). Great to get an insight into the joys and pains of rural Montana life and I was particularly glad to be able to sit out a morning of atrocious rain and cold.

The less glamorous side of cycle touring; sometimes you just end the day... nowhere. So you end up pitching by the roadside. 

Other days you are rewarded with incredible camps like this one at Clearwater Lake. It was a slog to get here, 72 miles of undulating forestry roads, but for the secluded setting and evening swim, worth it.

My only company here were the local loons which put on the most remarkable performance during the night - quivering laughs, unearthly wails - once heard, never forgotten. 

The American Dream

My final night in Canada was spent at the home of Gail and Garry in the delightful little town of Fernie. I couldn't have asked for better hosts and they epitomised all that was great about the Canadians I had met - generous, hospitable, open and welcoming. The beer, wine and conversation flowed, Garry only fell silent when watching the women's Olympic beach volleyball. I arrived looking like a beaten down hobo, the next day I left refreshed and reinvigorated, the Prince of Fernie!

Shortly before reaching the border the Americans put on a sound and light show for me - rumbling thunder and sharp cracks of lightening forking out of the angry sky. I was about to get a soaking at the crossing...

 Watch out Spielberg, there's a new filmmaker in town. Here is a video of me shortly after crossing the border: Border crossing

Chanced across this deserted campsite for a wonderful first nights camp in America. A great end to a slightly tough day on the bike. I had an owl for company hooting outside my tent for much of the night. Ospreys are a common sight, often nesting on bespoke  roadside poles.

Border crossing

The Great Divide Trail

This run of the mill forest track actually represents something rather spectacular - the beginning of The Great Divide Trail. Over 2700 miles long, this will take me to the border of the USA, right through the States down into Mexico. 

My steel framed bike is super sturdy so should cope with the demands of the trail well. I've put on extra chunky tyres which, though slower on the roads, stick to the gravely trails like glue.

The threat of bears is taken really seriously here and, especially when wild camping, any noises through the night can be a bit unsettling. As you can see trails are closed off and park officers drive around the campsites warning people to be vigilant. The park officer I spoke to had a peculiar accent; he was from Manchester!

While my bike is tough not all the components are up to scratch. My front pannier rack snapped and will be replaced as soon as I can get to a bike shop. Another Great Divide cyclist has helped me patch it up so I can continue for the moment. To add insult to injury, a couple of miles after the 'snap' I got my first puncture. Fortunately, my bike repair kit, courtesy of 9DPM, came to the rescue.

The track had been washed away so I had to unload the bike and carry everything across separately; exhausting and stressful! But also part of the adventure I came looking for. Finally, I don't know if I write this with pride or shame, but I've not showered for a week now! Lots of wild camping and basic campsites means I've made do with rivers and lakes for washing. I am staying with cyclists in Fernie tonight, cannot wait to get clean.

7000 ft high and rising

Crossed the border from British Columbia into Alberta. On the advice of other cyclists I took a little diversion up north along Highway 93 to explore the Icefields Parkway. What a spectacular stretch of road!

I climbed two 2000m passes in a day, ouch, the scenery took some of the sting out of it. As did the 12 hour sleep. Never before has the tent felt so comfortable.

This was my furthest point north, the Athabasca Glacier. As striking as its appearance was its rate of retreat. Come and see it before it melts away.

Proof that I really have made 7000 ft. Was glad of my sleeping bag liner at night as the temperature plummeted. As you can see below, I've had my first bear sighting. Spray not needed, it was much more interested in eating berries than me! (more meat on a berry)