After our hike up the slopes of Tungurahua everyone except for our host, Lenin, was exhausted and we all opted for a rest day before heading on. Clearly the muscle sets used for cycling are different to those used for climbing as my legs were screaming as if on fire! Furthermore, with my stomach still rumbling on uncomfortably I decided to be proactive in curing the problem and drank copious cups of herbal tea all day to douse the bugs that were causing me trouble. 
Unexpectedly, we were paid a visit by the local newspaper in Ambato to be interviewed about our respective cycle tours. I'm currently on a roll with my Spanish and I handled my interview with consummate ease even if I do say so myself!
What a cracking rest day. I felt reinvigorated by spending time with the other cyclists and, without wishing to sound overly spiritual or mystical, I was reminded of the importance of our trips. We're all on some kind of journey with rich experiences and new learning at the heart of what we are doing. Sometimes I need to remind myself of this as planning takes over and I become preoccupied with covering distances, organising accommodation etc. These things will always sort themselves out but you only have one chance to enjoy each passing moment.
The next day my stomach was back to normal, my legs were still screaming but it was time to move on. The other guys were heading south by the mountain route while I headed west towards Amazonia and the Ecuadorean jungle. Passing through Baños I noticed these road markings advising people in case of eruptions. 
HEP station. 
The road down from the Sierra was just stunning and it was an easy 60 mile ride. My commitment to adventure is evidenced by my new tyres picked up in Quito. I'm back to chunkier 2.25 inch mountain bike style. I'll only get the benefit from these if I ride gravel tracks so that's what I must do once I hit Peru. No easy ride in the final months for me! 
The Baños area is a major centre for adventure sports, zip wires, rafting and the like. Not for me, I'm happy with the bike. Also, in an attempt to protect my budget I'm trying to stick to $10 a day at the moment so as I don't withdraw more cash until Peru. With a bit of discipline I think I can make it in $5 per day! This means scrimping on things like accommodation. 
For example, staying with Bomberos. Here in the tiny Bomberos station at Shell I was welcomed with open arms. Wifi, shower, kitchen, eggs, rice, I was told to make myself at home. I don't need telling twice and soon settled in. 
I suppose it would have been churlish to complain about the lack of a bed, they were all full, so I just pitched my tent out back. Tropics here so a few more bugs around (hence pitching tent cover) and I was glad to have a roof over my head just in case of downpours.
In the end, for all the kind hospitality, it was not the best night's sleep with vehicles and people coming and going and the tv blaring out until well past midnight but it's a free nights accommodation. I put up and shut up. By the time I woke up at 6:30am the next morning I'd had plenty of rest anyway and, having helped myself to a free breakfast, was in the road by 7:20am.
Tropical flavour to the municipal architecture. During the day I was to see parrots flying overhead, hummingbirds zipping from tree to tree and a flock of exotic-looking kites, quite distinct from their sandwich-snatching cousins in Watlington.
This is what I'd hoped for, views over the Amazon rainforest that give some impression of it's mind boggling vastness. I suddenly felt both that I was in a place very far from home, and very insignificant. A breathtaking environment to experience and a thoroughly worthwhile excursion from the mountains. 
This region is in Ecuador's periphery and the paucity of funding for the area is evident. Even the church has a corrugated iron roof, a far cry from Quito's exquisite gothic cathedrals.
Around the villages in particular, the jungle was less impressive, hacked back and cleared for settlement and small-scale farming. Amidst such 'progress' my hopes of encountering an uncontacted tribe soon faded...
Yes, a happy and contented day. Despite now riding my chunky, high friction tyres I still managed to cover 87 miles (140km), reaching Macas by 3pm. I was continuing to work the aches of the volcano hike out of my legs, the long ride actually helping the process more than hindering. Whatever you do don't forget to stretch after exercise. 
Picture of contentment having just crossed the main pass between Limon and San Juan Bosco. Minutes later my derailleur cable snapped leaving me with just the bottom nine gears for the ride into San Juan Bosco. I was having such a nice day that I refused to let it bother me!
Casa de Ciclistas in San Juan Bosco. This quirky little house is set up purely for passing cyclists. It is an absolutely charming stop with all kinds of bike-influenced decorations, running water, shower, no electricity, no Wifi, a peaceful retreat from the trappings of the modern world.
Sadly my plans for a peaceful afternoon relaxing were scuppered by having to fix the gear cable. I has a spare but just could not get it to thread through the gear system. I felt better when the bike mechanic in the village also took 1.5 hours to complete the job!
Note to aspiring cycle tourists, you don´t need to be super technical to do a cycle tour. I clearly can´t replace a gear cable but I´ve made nearly 11,000 miles. There will always be someone around to help you out of a fix.
Exterior of the Casa de Ciclistas. 
Gear cable fixed I spent the rest of the day hanging out with Erica who runs the Casa de Ciclistas when the host is away.
This naughty dog, Sasha, had been chasing chickens around the village and gotten absolutely filthy. She hates water so this wash was also a form of punishment. Five minutes later she was chasing chickens again!
Erica and Mum. Another huge breakfast meant there was no snacking despite a challenging ride on to El Pangui. I kind of take it for granted now but I should say that the soups in Colombia and Ecuador are delicious and ever changing depending on what is grown locally.
El Pangui Bomberos. No Wifi this night (they had it but didn´t know the password) but I did get a room to myself and soon furnished it to my liking. A pleasant afternoon reading Trollope while listening to Freddie Hubbard and John Coltrane. Living the rock and roll dream.
As usual, I was left to my own devices at the Bomberos but we took a few pictures on my departure and also recorded an interview about my night´s stay. Good fun and more good practice of Spanish.
The ride from El Pangui to Zamora was slowly upstream following this river´s course.
Last town on my Amazonian leg.
Zamora Bomberos. Kind of left outside like a dog this night. You have to take the rough with the smooth and be stoical at times... As long as you have access to water and electricity you can´t really complain too much. Two weeks since I´ve been in a hotel.
Climbing out of the Amazon Basin towards the town of Loja back in the highlands.
Drenched in sweat (and mist) it was over 6000ft to the pass that would lead me into Loja. The Amazon stretch over, a cracking interlude in the mountain riding.
Two days and I should be at the border with Peru. Dirt tracks, 4000m + riding await. I can´t wait, I´ve really got the bit between my teeth at the moment.
Don´t forget OXFAM, any sponsorship, big or small, gratefully received!
No comments:
Post a Comment