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Tuesday 7 March 2017

Don't stop now - Colombia!

OXFAM appeal - remember, if you help me to reach my target of £2000 by March 28th, my 40th birthday, I will put in £200 of my travel funds. With pleasure! Three weeks to go and I still need more donations to make this happen. Please follow the link or put 'JustGiving Daniel Moden' into a search engine to help.
Donations will help the growing famine crisis in South Sudan. The first 10 minutes of this news programme will inform you of the current situation there: South Sudan

 Friday morning, 7:30am. I had a little job to do... My flight from Panama left at 5am so I'd decided to cut my losses and just stay overnight at the airport. I only got two hours sleep so rebuilding the bike was a bit of a challenge. 

 Friday morning, 9:00am. Nevertheless, the bike came together in the end and I was ready to ride into Bogotá. I'd arranged to meet my Warm Showers host, Jorge, at 7pm, so just ten hours to kill! Already flagging, I wasn't sure I was going to last.  

 Bogotá's forward thinking mayor, Penalosa, has done a lot to promote cycling in the city and the cycle lanes, in the suburbs at least, were just incredible. Also, as you can see in the picture, the city has a network of Trans Milenio buses that have fast boarding stations and dedicated lanes.      

 Plaza de Bolivar, Bogotá city centire. In truth it became a bit of a trial to get here. In the inner city districts the cycle lanes petered out and I had to fight it out with the traffic. Then, passing a particularly seedy inner city district, a street dog took exception to my presence and sunk its jaws into my leg! Not a serous bite but I realised I had to stop when blood started soaking through my trousers. Nerves now seriously frayed I had a mild panic about rabies and frantically searched online for the probability of having contracted rabies. Low it seems, more likely to get it from a bat. Though I was exhausted I was pretty confident I hadn't confused a bat for a dog, Bats don't bark. 

 Friday 7pm. A slightly fraught first day in South America but I'd survived it. How glad I was to meet my Warm Showers host Jorge, an environmental lawyer and university teacher. Friday night in Bogotá - sit down, quick chat, food, one beer then straight to bed. I was absolutely wrecked.
Next day was spent hanging out with Jorge, riding around town, drinking coffee and eating. I don't want to make Mr Rowe and Mr Rickard jealous but it really was the beginning of a new bromance. I got on with Jorge so well and found we had so many shared values. He too loves travelling as something that is fun but more importantly as a way of learning and connecting with the wider world, he too is passionate about his job but knows you have to make time and space in your life for other pursuits to achieve your potential as a person, and he too loves music. Some recommendations I can pass on from Jorge - Sidestepper, Palenke Soultribe and Pernet. Great music all weekend long!

 After resting up on Saturday, Sunday started early (up at 5:40am!) for a hike up Montserrate, a mountain above Bogotá with a church on the summit.    

 Jorge selfie with me and his friend Lorena in the background. Despite our early start the mountain was already thronging with people, the hike is something of a Bogotá tradition. 

 It was great to exert myself physically without being on the bike for a change.        

 We earned this! Breakfast in a traditional town centre cafe - tamales and hot chocolate. Great food and great company, the weekend in Bogotá will be a golden memory, another golden memory from the trip.  

 Bit weird taking photos of someone's apartment but I just want to remember the refuge of Jorge's flat where I recharged my batteries. Many peaceful hours spent heat reading, chatting, listening to music, drinking delicious coffee. 

   Riding out of Bogotá. My smile belies the maelstrom of emotions churning around my poor mixed up head! Someone recently messaged me to say how impressed they are that I always take the trip in my stride. I really don't! One of the biggest challenges for me is to constantly summon up the self belief that I can keep going. At this point I was tremendously excited to be starting the South American leg of my trip but absolutely daunted by the thought of tackling the Andes (where I'm headed). At times it's been sheer bloody mindedness that has kept me going, not belief or confidence.

 On a lighter note, this is the first time I've seen a bike lane at a toll station. Oh how I remember the days of sneaking round the side of Mexican toll booths, praying that I wouldn't be stopped in my illegal path.  

 Riding on from Bogotá I got into my stride again and, as is nearly always the case, it felt wonderful to be riding again. Especially when you see  these downhill signs.  

 Lunch- soup, main and fresh fruit juice at 8000 pesos - £2.30 just doesn't seem right.  

 Erosion. 

 Confident that I am going to part with £200 at the end of the month, I'm already making efforts to cut my daily budget. If you take accommodation out of the equation you half your budget. 
So, can I camp here please? Of course, put people on the spot and human nature, inherently good, will shine through. So I was granted camp space and welcomed.   

 As the evening wore on the winds picked up, a spectacular lightning show began and rain threatened. The friendly couple who had agreed to let me camp told me I'd better take the tent down. "You can sleep inside, I've prepared a bed for you. Oh, and dinner's nearly ready." My jaw dropped. They were clearly not wealthy people but what they had they shared. Once I got over my ridiculous English guilt at accepting hospitality, asking 'are you sure?' and thanking them repeatedly, I settled into a comfortable evening and rested well. 
This photo is early the next morning as I set off at 7am.   

 Another early morning shot. 

 The hospitality of the last few days is starting to sink in and I have a wonderful feeling about Colombia. This 1000m climb felt like nothing, I was just brimming with positive energy. These are days of my life!

 Coffee stop. Can't get much more local than this produce, grown across the road. 

 Not sure what to say about this photo. 

 And finally, I'm staying in Honda tonight, another Warm Showers host. Incredible house situated in the heart of the colonial district.

So, new continent, new challenges but what a cracking start to South America. I have a 3000m climb ahead of me tomorrow so I'd better get an early night. 
With no other means of making contact  I'll use the blog to say thank you so much to Tom Haxton for your kind donation. I remember well meeting you at Red Rock Lake and for you to sponsor me on the basis of such a brief meeting, so long ago is inspiring and motivating (inherent good nature of people).I will fly up the 3000m tomorrow!

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