After a week teaching in La Candelaria I needed a drink so, in my final night in Guatemala, I had a few cans of Gallo to unwind. 
For the last week I've been making steady progress east through the Central American isthmus. Hopping from town to town, it's been a series of gentle rides, rarely covering more than 40 miles in a day.
Leaving the coast I took a boat from Monterrico to La Avellana, a short cut to propel me towards the border. The short journey took me through mangroves with exotic herons and kingfishers visible from the boat. 
It's been a fantastic, tranquil week on the bike. I knew very little about El Salvador before I arrived, just that it used the US dollar, it's the most densely populated Central American state and that it was embroiled in violent civil conflict in the 1980s. Unfortunately it still has a reputation for crime and violence and 12th January was the first day in more than two years without a homicide. This appears to put tourists off; many backpackers I met in Guatemala were planning to fly to Nicaragua to skip El Salvador and Honduras. What a pity, there're missing out on two countries with great scenery, shy but welcoming people and undeveloped places not yet affected by the usual trappings of tourism.
Also, it is very important to add that, I have heard of no account of tourists being affected by violence, this is gang and drug related and tourists are not a target. Come and visit these places if you wish to get off the beaten track!
Lago de Coatepeque, a volcanic lake in the southern extension of the Sierra de Madre. On the Pacific side of this mountain range the climate was humid and tropical supporting lush vegetation whereas, passing to the landward side, in the rain shadow of the mountains the climate was dry supporting pine forests. Humid or dry, the temperature soars in the middle of the day.
This environmental problem does regularly detract from the beauty of the rides - rubbish strewn across the verges. There appears to be a massive lack of education; I frequently see people simply dropping their litter in the streets or cans/plastic bottles being hurled from buses.
I rarely take a plastic bag from shops and sometimes get strange looks when I say ''Sin bolsa por favor.'' It's just not customary to refuse a bag.
As mentioned earlier, this part of the world is off the tourist trail and hardly abounding with touristic sights or activities. For me, this is much of the charm. However, each town's modest attractions tend to include plazas and churches, a focal point for the community.
My stay in El Salvador was short and sweet, just four days. Between Metapan and Citala I found a dirt track that took me high through the pine clad hills before descending to the border with Honduras. Echoes of the Great Divide Trail in the States.
As I took a picture of this stationary bus the driver jumped off for a quick chat. Having lived in the States he knew a bit of English and was keen to practice. 
My photos don't really do the scenery justice but, trust me, the hills of Western Honduras are really lovely. 
I knew my first full day riding in Honduras was going to be a tough one, the first 13 miles were up all the way, a 4000ft rise. I never really recovered in the remaining 43 miles!
It didn't help that my card got blocked on arrival here so I had to faff about in the morning phoning the bank to unblock the card then getting cash out. This delayed my start so I couldn't take full advantage of the early morning cool.
At least the road was pretty decent and wide. I often think that, better than GDP per capita, life expectancy or birth rate, a country's level of development should be measured by a 'Driving Quality Index.' Honduras would score a measly 3 in my book. ''Few roads signs, rarely observed. Mobile phone used by drivers most of the time. Consideration to other road users perceived as a sign of weakness.''
After about 40 miles I was really struggling with the heat and climbs. A guardian angel in a pick-up offered me a ride and I wavered for a moment, I was ready to break my 'do it under my own steam' rule. But I was not led into temptation and battled on. On the point of collapse I stopped at a roadside shop to stock up on water, all they had was Coca-Cola, something I usually try to avoid as much as possible. I went for the 2 litre bottle and promptly downed the first litre!
As a coping strategy for the final push onto Santa Rosa de Copan, I decided to stop every mile for a little break and a glug of the remaining sugary tooth-rot. I just about made it into town, 8000ft of climbing for the day.
These moments make the tough rides worth it. Showered and stretched, I always feel a tremendous sense of wellbeing and serenity after preceding hardship. The coffee tastes all the richer for having truly suffered to truly earn it. 
Santa Rosa de Copan
So this is where it comes from. Coffee beans drying out in the searing midday heat.
Honduras health and safety, plug sockets in the shower.
These river scenes are very pretty but also mark the lowest point in the valley. The only way is up....
And the same goes for the fundraising. The total is rising steadily and I'm nearly 80% of the way to my £2000 target. Thank you so much for the donations, it's going to a great cause and provides wonderful motivation in the tougher moments (another hard ride lined up tomorrow!).
If I hit my £2000 target I'll push the target up to £3000, please help!
No comments:
Post a Comment