Durango's cathedral looks over the Plaza de Armas, the city's main square. By day stalls sell local produce, snacks and handicrafts while at night the atmosphere completely changes with live music and dancing taking over. I'd had a taste of colonial architecture in Parral but the extent of Spanish-styled buildings was far greater in Durango. After a couple of long days pushing on to the city it was great take some rest time reading in cafes or sat in the plazas.
Food was a regular theme during my stay in Durango; my host Jonathon introduced me to some great eating spots and we got on really well. It's incredible how, with some people, I really struggle to catch a word of what they're saying whereas with others, like Jonathon, communication is a real breeze. He's a very welcoming host; we bumped into a couple of American bike tourers pedalling through town and, without hesitation, they were invited to stay at his house.
The food theme continues! Lunch in the market - a range of caldos to choose from.
Back at Jonathon's house with the American tourers - Brandon and Jonny - and a Mexican friend. Roast chicken dinner washed down with Pacifico beer. Brandon and Jonny were the first cycle tourists I'd encountered in Mexico so it was a great opportunity to share experiences and ideas.
Back on the road, south towards Zacatecas. Smooth riding, undulating rather than hilly. In central Mexico I'm still at quite an altitude, over 7000ft, sometimes rising to above 8000ft. I'm pretty keen to keep my hand in with the camping (though this is only my fourth camp in a month in Mexico). There's a skill to finding decent campsites and I suppose wild camping requires a bit of nerve. This one will go down as a success, close to the road but well secluded, dry and level, no mosquitoes and, at night, with clear skies and a bright moon, a spectacular show of stars and light so bright that it cast a strong shadow.
After camping I had the unexpected pleasure of riding through Sombrerete, a small town with a delightful colonial centre. After years of backpacking with Lonely Planets or Rough Guides I'm travelling without a travel guide so often have no idea of what's coming up; this little town was an early morning treat.
Food theme! Leaving Sombrerete I couldn't resist having a second breakfast in this quaint little Chinese diner. As mentioned on Facebook, the large portions weighed me down for the rest of the day but, for a few extra minutes in town, it was worth it.
Yes, during the three day ride between Durango and Zacatecas I have crossed the Tropic of Cancer so am now officially in the Tropics.
Humble lodgings in Fresnillo, I stayed with relatives of the people who so generously hosted me in Nuevo Casas Grandes in Chihuahua state. Again I was taken in as one of the family and my every need was seen to.
Fresnillo is a fairly small, provincial town but still with some impressive colonial architecture. I write this post from Zacatecas which has an astonishingly beautiful centre, I will post some photos in due course.
Visiting more of the family... My host was Beto, the guy in the centre and during my stay he proudly introduced me to his friends, seemingly half of Fresnillo, and took me for a day trip to Zacatecas before I cycled on there myself. Beto is a great example of someone whose Spanish I really struggled to catch, 20% would be generous! However, he was incredibly generous and you don't need a common language to understand that he has a heart of gold.
Durango's cathedral looks over the Plaza de Armas, the city's main square. By day stalls sell local produce, snacks and handicrafts while at night the atmosphere completely changes with live music and dancing taking over. I'd had a taste of colonial architecture in Parral but the extent of Spanish-styled buildings was far greater in Durango. After a couple of long days pushing on to the city it was great take some rest time reading in cafes or sat in the plazas.
Food was a regular theme during my stay in Durango; my host Jonathon introduced me to some great eating spots and we got on really well. It's incredible how, with some people, I really struggle to catch a word of what they're saying whereas with others, like Jonathon, communication is a real breeze. He's a very welcoming host; we bumped into a couple of American bike tourers pedalling through town and, without hesitation, they were invited to stay at his house.
The food theme continues! Lunch in the market - a range of caldos to choose from.
Back at Jonathon's house with the American tourers - Brandon and Jonny - and a Mexican friend. Roast chicken dinner washed down with Pacifico beer. Brandon and Jonny were the first cycle tourists I'd encountered in Mexico so it was a great opportunity to share experiences and ideas.
Back on the road, south towards Zacatecas. Smooth riding, undulating rather than hilly. In central Mexico I'm still at quite an altitude, over 7000ft, sometimes rising to above 8000ft. I'm pretty keen to keep my hand in with the camping (though this is only my fourth camp in a month in Mexico). There's a skill to finding decent campsites and I suppose wild camping requires a bit of nerve. This one will go down as a success, close to the road but well secluded, dry and level, no mosquitoes and, at night, with clear skies and a bright moon, a spectacular show of stars and light so bright that it cast a strong shadow. 
After camping I had the unexpected pleasure of riding through Sombrerete, a small town with a delightful colonial centre. After years of backpacking with Lonely Planets or Rough Guides I'm travelling without a travel guide so often have no idea of what's coming up; this little town was an early morning treat. 
Food theme! Leaving Sombrerete I couldn't resist having a second breakfast in this quaint little Chinese diner. As mentioned on Facebook, the large portions weighed me down for the rest of the day but, for a few extra minutes in town, it was worth it. 
Yes, during the three day ride between Durango and Zacatecas I have crossed the Tropic of Cancer so am now officially in the Tropics.
Humble lodgings in Fresnillo, I stayed with relatives of the people who so generously hosted me in Nuevo Casas Grandes in Chihuahua state. Again I was taken in as one of the family and my every need was seen to. 
Fresnillo is a fairly small, provincial town but still with some impressive colonial architecture. I write this post from Zacatecas which has an astonishingly beautiful centre, I will post some photos in due course.
Visiting more of the family... My host was Beto, the guy in the centre and during my stay he proudly introduced me to his friends, seemingly half of Fresnillo, and took me for a day trip to Zacatecas before I cycled on there myself. Beto is a great example of someone whose Spanish I really struggled to catch, 20% would be generous! However, he was incredibly generous and you don't need a common language to understand that he has a heart of gold.
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