And now for something completely different... Mexico!

The first two months of my trip are up so farewell Canada and the USA. In the end I completed the Great Divide Trail in exactly 50 days, a gruelling experience which I'm proud but glad to have completed. Before I get completely consumed by all things Mexican, I should mention that, shattering some of my preconceptions about the States, not once did anyone give me any trouble, perhaps once was anyone less than helpful when I approached them for help and at absolutely all times I felt really safe; I frequently left my bike unlocked as I went shopping or got a cup of coffee. Canada and the States have the Moden seal of approval!

As happened when I entered the States, a violent storm erupted as I approached the Mexican border. Thunder, lightning just overhead and violent gusts of wind made what can be a stressful process even more challenging. I don't know if I've done the procedure correctly but I do have a Mexican visa. Why am I being so chummy with the immigration official? He was expecting me! Honestly. I'd made contact with a Warm Showers host, Elias Ramos, who has then spread the word of my arrival. First and only time I expect I'll ever get a personal greeting at an international border.

I crossed the border just south of Columbus into the village of Puerto Palomas. Dusty little border town, pleasant enough with a few restaurants, shops and money changers. These guys were playing some traditional sounding tunes so I nipped into the bar for my first Mexican beer. It is said that these border areas are plagued with crime and violence. I have seen no evidence of this myself but will be taking precautions anyway - no camping in the desert, hotel stays from now (first hotel of the trip, none in Canada/the States!), not out after dark, ride during daylight hours along major routes, don't accept sweets off strangers or go to see their puppies etc etc.

As I crossed the border I was genu inely ecstatic to be in Mexico. Though Canada/the States had treated me so well many elements of the culture are very similar and, for me, the biggest thrill of travelling is experiencing the new and unknown. I want to learn more about the Mexican Revolution and Pancho Villa's role (this is his statue), I want to relearn and improve my Soanish, hopeful picking up on local idiosyncrasies. I want to discover Mexican cuisine which I'm really quite ignorant about, and contribute to the country's beer industry (on a small scale as drinking to excess does not support cycle touring).

My first hotel if the trip, Hotel Plaza. Dusty streets and blue skies, I love the character of the towns I've been in so far. A little gentle bargaining seems to be acceptable here and I shouldn't need to pay more than $15 for a room.

Moving on from Puerto Palomas, 20 miles out of town, a car stopped ahead of me and the driver got out and waved me down. Immediately I was on the alert but cautiously stopped. The guy introduced himself, he was the brother of Elias Ramos! He'd been expecting to see me! We chatted a little, he gave me a bottle of iced water and we went our delegate ways.

Later on, as I passed through Ascension, this hitch-hiker flagged me down. "Are you Daniel?" What?!? He was a friend of Elias Ramos and was offering me a place to staying I needed it. It seems that Elias Eamos has a network of guardian angels looking out for me, smoothing my path through Northern Mexico. Today I ride on to Nuevo Casas Grandes and am thrilled to be staying with a Mexican family tonight. Warm Showers has transformed my experiences on this trip.

I thought the desert was dry? Yesterday, just seven miles short of my destination, Janos, I got caught in a mid-afternoon convectional storm. Super intense, I just had time to put in my waterproofs and cower somewhat pathetically next to my bike. For probably just 10 minutes I was lashed by rain and wind and must have looked a sorry sight to the passing lorries. I mean a more sorry sight than usual. 

Roadside stalls will be my main source of refuelling from now. Cheap and filling and the inevitable miscommunications and language barriers can bring you together with people if you just laugh it off. I actually quite enjoy ordering "something" not knowing exactly what will turn up. It reminds me of my own cooking.